Mouton Rothschild between 1918 and 2018
A tasting full of surprises
When I received the list of wines for the tasting, somewhere underground in Zug, it was clear that the 2018 and 1982 vintages were the two blue chips of the tasting. The other wines were 1994, 1987, 1976, 1960, 1952 and 1918.
No one would bet a penny on a wine from 1960.
We all know that, really. Wine is tasted and then discussed. Often, however, the opposite is true. The 1960 vintage did have one advantage, though. Since virtually no one expected anything from it, it had a not inconsiderable opportunity to surprise!
Brief summary
The 1918 made a serene and confident impression, while the 1952 was somewhat tired but honourable. The 1960 reminded us that one should first taste a wine and then discuss it, while the 1976 surprised everyone with its form, with tannins that were not the finest but provided a solid backbone.
The 1987 enjoyed the Swiss bonus (label by Hans Erni) and reminded us once again that it was time to drink it, but it has been doing so for twenty years! The 1982 has taken on its role as a benchmark with composure, and the 2018 has allowed itself to challenge it by positioning itself on an equal footing without any complexes!
Tasting notes by Yves Beck
Château Mouton Rothschild 1918
The bouquet reveals notes of caramel, vetiver and iodine, clearly dominated by tertiary aromas. After aeration, notes of red berries even emerge. The wine shows no signs of oxidation, at most a little fatigue, which is perfectly acceptable for a 107-year-old wine! On the palate, the wine thrives on its acidity, which sets the tone. This is actually the only component that is really noticeable besides an astonishing harmony! This last point is particularly commendable; it doesn’t have much, but it can do a lot!
Château Mouton Rothschild 1952
Quite an intense bouquet with notes of green curry and malt, followed by Szechuan pepper. The bouquet resembles a swan song, but one cannot shake the feeling that it could sing for even longer! On the palate, the wine captivates with its slender character and its ability to combine temperament, elegance and austerity. All this confirms its current form and its quite long finish, but it has nevertheless passed its zenith.
Château Mouton Rothschild 1960
It is not often that one encounters a 1960 Mouton (or other wines), and some might say that is just as well… Irony aside, it should be said that the wine performs very well! It serves as a reminder that one should taste a wine first and then debate it… not the other way around. A lean, juicy wine that is on the decline, but that doesn’t prevent it from being enjoyable.
Château Mouton Rothschild 1976
Nuances of herbs and liquorice with a hint of pumpernickel and malt. On the palate, the wine reveals a fleshy side and quite pronounced tannins, and it is precisely here that this 1976 Mouton surprises with a mouth-watering acidity. This makes the wine harmonious and ready to drink. A lovely surprise! Now until 2036.
Château Mouton Rothschild 1982
85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Cabernet Franc, 7% Merlot
The 1982 vintage is legendary and the consistency of this wine over the years is impressive! Noble wood notes, cedar wood and black berries are equally present. The wine impresses with its freshness, acidity and long finish. A wine that seems a little closed to me, but has breathtaking energy. With air, it gains definition and detail. A Mouton 1982 that perfectly fulfils its role as a benchmark! Now until 2075.
Château Mouton Rothschild 1987
85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc
Nuances of curry, roasted paprika and mocha, followed by a hint of cassis in this bouquet; it fluctuates between tiredness and endurance! The wine surprises with tannins that are still present, accompanied by the acidity structure. It has a little less body than before, but it still has power and length. Just as I was about to write that it was on the decline, this “fellow” actually found new youth, or rather new life, in the carafe! So once again I can write that it’s time to drink it… But I’ve been doing that for 20 years… and I just can’t get enough of it! Drink up
Château Mouton Rothschild 1994
80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot
The characteristics of the Mouton family are unmistakable on both the nose and palate. Notes of graphite and cedar, complemented by a hint of mint and hops, precede a lovely attack. The tannin structure provides power. It is not particularly fine, but strong and, together with the acidity structure, promises exceptional potential. This is a wine that continues to develop and deserves our attention, as it is largely underrated. Although it is not particularly expressive today, this is only a temporary state. It has all the components to be one of the great Moutons! As we know, hope dies last. Now until 2045.
Château Mouton Rothschild 2018
86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc
The depth of the bouquet is immediately apparent! The wood tones are perfectly integrated, black berries accompanied by cocoa beans and graphite dominate, and the wine seems to me to have entered a phase of extraordinary serenity! The delicate attack typical of Mouton is replaced by compact, elegant, velvety tannins that provide power and tartness. The latter guarantees not only the palate aroma but also the lingering finish. A remarkable wine that deserves our patience! In my opinion, it can now compete very well with the 1982 in a direct comparison! 2028-2058